Caring For Your Chihuahua

Well, you have just returned from the breeders with your Chihuahua puppy. You sit down and start looking around for the owner's manual...What! no owner's manual?

Unfortunately your cute little puppy doesn't come with an owner's manual so you have to dig in and learn how to care for this charming creature.

So, until you get up to speed with the training program, this article will help you on your way.

Chihuahuas, are a good breed for small homes, apartments or city dwellers, after all they are very small dogs and are mainly house pets. You do not ever want to let them outdoors by themselves. They do not know they are tiny and will challenge the biggest dog on the block because they are also very protective.

Now, let's talk about their care and feeding.

You should consult your veterinarian about the nutritional needs of your puppy but after weaning (up to six weeks), puppies should be fed four small meals a day until three months old; from three months to six months they should be fed three meals a day and from six months to a year they should be fed twice a day. After one year, once a day is fine. Chihuahuas prefer several small meals as opposed to one big meal per day with regular adult dog food. Sometimes, canned food is difficult for this breed to digest, resulting in diarrhea.

Bathing your puppy should be done about once a month. Bathing too often may remove the natural oils from the coat and result in dandruff. Shampooing on occasion can actually enhance the sheen of the coat.

You must take care not to get water into their ears, as an infection can develop.

Technically speaking Chihuahuas remain puppies for about two years. This is the training period and you should try to train your puppy in it's feeding habits and potty habits. To paper train your puppy, just keep the puppy on paper as much as possible for the first two weeks they live with you. Then move their food and water just off the paper. Every time you see the pup start to have a bowel movement, just place them on the paper. He will soon learn what is expected of him.

Puppies and adults should have access to fresh clean water always during the day. The bowl should be scrubbed with very hot water but avoid using dish soap as the odor may cause them to shy away.

Trimming the puppies' nails should be a monthly event. You can use cat claw trimmers and it is best to start this nail-trimming routine early-on so that your dog becomes accustomed to the clipping of the nails and to the use of the trimmer.

Consult your veterinarian on the periodic cleaning of your Chi's ears and teeth, booster shots and vaccinations.

It is best to visit the vet after eight or nine weeks. Your puppy will probably need additional shots. You should bring the puppy's shot record that you received when you purchased the pup.

At this visit, they should either be wormed or given a fecal test for worms or other parasites. The worming is less hassle and expense than the test and will not harm your pup.

The vet may suggest that you brush your pets teeth. The small and toy breeds have more dental problems than the standard and larger breeds. Obviously the anatomy of the smaller breeds have left the teeth more crowded in the jaw and, with little space between the teeth, enables more harmful bacteria to remain in the mouth, hence the need for brushing.

Also, owners should be aware of the fact Chihuahuas are prone to weak knees. This problem may occur as they get older. If your Chihuahua has trouble walking, take them to the vet.

Try to stay with the same vet or treatment facility and keep good records. It is important for your pet's health.

You must remember that this is just an introductory part of your "owner's manual" to start you off on the right path to giving quality care to your puppy. You should learn more from books and other Chihuahua owners.

More importantly, your Chihuahua needs much tender loving care with human contact, touching, petting and general attention.

Chihuahuas are by nature gentle, loyal and sweet-tempered and they will give a lot of love and affection to you in return for your care. You will never be alone with a Chihuahua in your household.

Brushing the Dog

It is vital that the dog is groomed regularly for several reasons:
1. To avoid discomfort.
2. To help eliminate skin disorders.
3. To prevent infestation of parasites.
4. To stop smells developing.
5. To avoid extra charges at the Vets.
6. To remove loose hair, reducing amount floating around the house.

To achieve a tip-top coat condition and maintain a healthy pet, it is essential that the ears, eyes, coat, skin and anal area of the dog is checked regularly.

The first steps to grooming the dog:
1. Ensure you have a steady and non-slip worktop or table. A rubber bath mat placed on a firm table will do. Do not use a towel as this will slip and slide.
2. Make sure that the dog knows that this is the place where not to misbehave. Start if possible as a puppy with regular short sessions.
3. Make this an enjoyable and pleasurable experience (for both of you) but not a game.
4. The dog must learn through repetition, correction and praise. Do not smack the dog, use voice control.
5. Always reward the dog after a groom, either by treat or physical attention.
6. Take the dog outside to relieve itself before the groom begins and once the groom is completed.

The recommended frequency of grooming varies according to coat texture and length. Seek the advice of an experienced breeder or groomer. As a guide, every dog should be groomed at least once a week, many breeds three times!

Do's and Don'ts when brushing ALL types of coats:
1. Do not bath the dog before thoroughly brushing out, as this tightens any knots present, also shampoo will be difficult to rinse out.
2. Do start brushing from the back and work towards the front as this is less sensitive for the skin.
3. Do be systematic, so that you do not miss any areas.
4. Do always hold limbs at a natural angle, no matter how awkward the position a knot may be in.
5. Do remember that with most breeds there is the undercoat to brush too, not just the surface of the coat.
6. Do be firm, but do not smack. Praise once corrected and obeyed.

Techniques of Brushing:
With ling haired, dense and curly non-shedding hair, be aware that by brushing just on the surface of the coat does not prevent matting. There is hair all the way down to the skin that needs attention.

Begin at the bottom of the back leg, using your non-brushing hand, lift the hair up and slicker brush underneath, bit by bit gradually brushing hair down form where you are holding it. Remember that there are four sides to a leg, front, back, outside and inside. Having worked your way up the leg, start on the belly and use the same method on the body. Always check with a comb, after thoroughly brushing, to check for hidden knots.

Take care when brushing near the eyes, the pins of the brush can scratch the eyes and cause permanent damage, sometimes loss of sight. The hock and the belly are also sensitive areas when brushing. Special attention should be given to the Matt Zones- underarms, inside legs, behind ears and feathering on thick coated dogs.

Basic Tools for Grooming:
Smooth haired dogs will require a rubber brush to brush against the lie of the coat to loosen hairs. A bristle brush to remove dead skin and surface dirt and also stimulates circulation. A chamois cloth to polish the coat for added sheen.

Short coated dogs will require a slicker brush and a bristle brush. As will long silky coats, which will additionally require a comb to test for remaining knots.

Curly, non-shedding coats will require a pin brush and comb.

Internal Parasites of the Dog

Internal parasites (Endoparasite)can strike any dog, whether the dog appears to be clean and/or if it is from a seemingly 'well-to-do home'.

Roundworms (Toxocara canis, Toxascaris leonina)are rather like pale earthworms and can reach approximately 10cm in length. They are pointed at both ends. Signs of presence in a dog are: mild vomiting, pot-bellied, dull coat, either sudden weight gain or weight loss. A puppy might cough or hiccup. A presence of worms will be seen wrapped around the stools passed.

The Life Cycle of the Toxocara canis starts with the bitch eating contaminated feces. The larvae migrate to various parts of the body- mammary glands, uterus, and remain in the intestine. Puppies feed off the bitch and the larvae enter their system, growing into an adult within two weeks. The adult worms lay eggs which hatch into larvae and burrow through the gut wall to the liver and lungs, causing respiratory problems. Some lay dormant while others are coughed up and swallowed thus travelling down into the intestine where they grow into adult worms and lay thousands of eggs. These eggs are passed out of the dog where they lay waiting for a passer-by to eat the feces enabling the cycle to start over.

The Life Cycle of the Toxascaris leonina starts with the eggs being ingested, and hatching in the stomach. They do not migrate, but develop in the wall of the intestine, therefore infection to a bitch's puppies does not occur.

It is therefore advisable that pregnant bitches should be wormed under the vet's supervision, puppies should be routinely wormed after the age of two weeks. Adult dogs should be wormed every six months, every three months is wise if there are young children in the household.

Tapeworms (Dipylidium caninum) are flat, segmented and can be up to 50cm long. They are not normally seen as a complete worm, but the individual segments loaded with ripe eggs. Signs of presence in a dog, is that the abdomen may become distorted, but the most common sign is the presence of rice-like grains around the anus. These worms can also be seen moving in the dog's feces. They can cause diarrhea and poor growth development in puppies.

The Life Cycle of Dipylidium caninum starts when a dog swallows a flea, which has itself swallowed an embryonated worm. The larvae develop into adult worms in the small intestine. Specific worming remedies for this type of worm are obtained from a vet. Also ensure that the dog is regularly checked for fleas.

Ticks (Ixodes species) are brownish-white and can be initially mistaken for a wart, but on closer inspection the legs can be seen, while the head is buried in the epidermis. Having gorged on the dog's blood it grows to the size of a bean or pea. Signs of presence may only be when a dog has an allergic reaction to them and due to scratching, red sore areas appear. Normally a dog will tolerate one or two ticks without showing any signs of irritation and they will only be noticed during grooming.

The Life Cycle of Ixodes species starts with adult ticks laying eggs which drop on the ground. Larvae hatch and climb on to blades of grass, shrubs, etc., where they wait for a passer by to brush past, thus enabling them to attach themselves on to the hair of the dog. Surgical spirit soaked onto the tick suffocates it, thus loosening its grip. It can then be removed with tweezers. Never attempt to pull the tick off without soaking it first, as the head will remain and cause infection. Treat the area with insecticide. A special dip/shampoo can be obtained from the vet if infestation is severe.